Interview With Stephen Traina-Dorge, Founder of Pink Headed Duck Coffee
Pink Headed Duck Coffee has been at the forefront of bringing Myanmar's specialty coffee to North America since 2022. We spoke to the importer’s founder, Stephen Traina-Dorge, to discuss the country's evolving coffee scene, the challenges of exporting from a nation in crisis, and why Myanmar's natural-processed coffees are gaining international attention.
TRP. What changes have you noticed in the Myanmar coffee market since you've started working there?
ST. I've been living in Myanmar since 2016 and working with Myanmar coffee since 2019. First, it was part of a pilot program to improve Robusta quality in remote northern Kachin State, then I got involved in importing specialty Arabica to the U.S. and Canada in 2022.
Following a USAID program from 2015-2019 that focused on processing, farmers now experiment with diverse varieties and processing methods like co-ferments, anaerobics, washed, and more. Meanwhile, Robusta, which accounts for 20% of Myanmar's coffee production, is emerging as a high-value alternative as climate change increasingly threatens Arabica cultivation.
TRP. What are the biggest logistical challenges in getting Myanmar coffee to market?
ST. Myanmar has been in crisis since a 2021 military coup, and the ongoing civil war across the country has compounded threats and difficulties for many families, their livelihoods and their futures. Specialty coffee continues to help push back against some of the worst effects by providing safe and resilient economic opportunities for young adults and women, but the sector is not entirely immune to its effects.
Initially, military and militia checkpoints slowed shipments from northern highlands to Yangon's port. More recently, active conflict has moved into coffee-producing villages, while extreme weather has damaged farms through landslides and flooding. Since 2023, resistance groups controlling land borders have created import/export bottlenecks, delaying some container departures by weeks or months, including our 2024 shipment. Labour shortages have also emerged as youth flee the country to avoid conflict and seek opportunities elsewhere. Despite these challenges, farmer associations continue providing resources to maintain specialty standards, and new communities keep joining.
TRP. What processing methods are most common?
ST. Myanmar's best known for natural-processed coffees. As part of the USAID program, consultants helped popularize dry naturals because they offer a high-value market niche without requiring high-tech processing equipment or water. It took some work, but ultimately the efforts were a success. The team found that dry natural processing was ideal because Myanmar's annual cool, dry season lines up exactly with harvest. It showcases the region's unique terroir and provides an inclusive model that can be easily replicated by new coffee farming communities looking to join.
TRP. What do you think the future holds for the Myanmar coffee market?
ST. I think what's exciting about Myanmar's coffee market is not just its growth internationally but also domestically. The expanded coffee production has caused a surge in domestic demand, with new roasters, cafes, competitions, and educational academies popping up across Myanmar. It's still uncommon for a booming coffee scene to exist in the same country producing those coffees, and I believe we'll soon see Myanmar producers, agronomists, cuppers, baristas, and roasters making their mark globally.
